Introduction
Motorcycle racing is a
great sport - fast, thrilling and skilful. As with other sports, not every
participant aspires to the highest levels but there is a certain amount of
basic knowledge that must be acquired by anyone who wishes to be an effective
rider.
This road racing school
won't teach you everything about motorcycle racing, nor will it make you a
great rider instantly. What it will do is make you familiar with the basics and
start you thinking about how to improve your own riding. Developing your
racecraft skills requires a blend of planning, preparation, attitude, technique
and practice.
This book contains brief
notes on many aspects of motorcycle racing.
It will be used as a guide by the course instructors who will discuss
and expand on the points. You may find
it useful to browse through the book from time to time after this course to
refresh your memory on some of the basics.
Equipment
When you are starting out with a new or second hand bike always set it up according to the manufacturers specifications until you find it necessary to change anything. Always buy a workshop manual and refer to it for all maintenance - torque settings, fluid volumes, clearances, adjustments, etc.
Prepare your bike so that you are confident it is safe for you and safe for other riders on the track - you don't want it to leak oil or have bits dropping off and creating a hazard.
Preparation Checklist (Complete this BEFORE race day)
Wire up all oil and coolant drain plugs:
- Sump plugs
- Oil filter
- Oil filler plug
- Front fork drain screws
- Water drain
- Radiator caps
Check that all nuts and bolts are securely tightened.
Check bearings for slop:
- Wheel bearings
- Swing arm bearings
- Steering head bearings
Adjust loose bearings or replace them.
Check front and rear tyre pressures. (Check again on race day)
Check suspension components:
- Fork seals
- Damping and rebound adjustments
- Fork oil levels
If you are unsure of tyre and suspension settings, use the manufacturer recommendations as a starting point.
Liquid cooled bikes must have a radiator overflow bottle.
Four stroke bikes must have an oil catch bottle of at least 500 ml capacity.
Racing numberplates must conform in size and colour to the specifications in the General Competition Rules (GCR's). Different classes of bikes use different coloured racing plates.
Noise levels - All bikes must conform to state regulations, usually 95 decibels. This regulation is enforced and machines exceeding this level are excluded until they can comply with the noise level. Most racetracks have noise metering equipment.
Apart from the preparation described above you must:
- Remove or tape up any exposed glass or plastic (headlight and indicators).
- Remove the centrestand and sidestand.
- Drain the coolant and replace with water.
Experimentation with tyres, suspension and tuning may be required to get the best performance from the bike on each track. A good starting point is to set the bike up with the manufacturers recommendations for tyre and suspension settings.
When experimenting with your bike's set-up, change only ONE thing at a time. If you change several things at once it can be difficult to determine what caused the bike to perform better or worse.
Bike set-up depends on many factors among these are:
Rider - height, weight, experience and personal preferences
Bike - frame geometry, tyres, suspension, weight and power
Track - layout, surface, slow, fast, camber
Conditions - wet, dry, hot, cold
It is a good idea to keep a notebook and write down all the changes you make to gearing, tyre pressures, fuel, oil, jetting, spark plugs, ignition timing, etc. This will help you when setting the up next time under similar conditions, especially for a track you have raced at before.
Helmet - Must be in good condition and should have no deep scratches or grazes. Should have a label stating that it conforms to Australian Standard AS1698. Helmets considered ineffective by scrutineers can be confiscated.
Leathers - One piece suits, or two piece (trousers and jacket) are acceptable. Two piece suits must have the trousers securely attached to the jacket at the rear. Leathers or jackets with a front-opening zip must be fitted with a neck strap.
Gloves - Must be in good protective condition.
Boots - Must provide protection to the ankles and calves.
Back protector – These are compulsory.
These things will all be checked by scrutineers before each race meeting. Prepare your bike and equipment properly beforehand.
Rider Attitude
Like your bike which should be fully prepared at least two days before a race meeting, you, the rider also need to be prepared at least two days before the event. It will help even if you take five or ten minutes each day to stop and think about the track you are going to - braking markers, corner entry and exit points, when to accelerate, etc. Think yourself through a complete lap of the track.
The lead up to a race can
be a stressful time. Many riders take
time to focus themselves before they go out on the track, either for practice
or for a race. If it helps you, take a couple of minutes to relax and calm
yourself. Sit down, breathe regularly
and think calm thoughts. If you can be relaxed and
focused you will be able to concentrate better than if you are wound up.
Think about where YOU want to be on the track. Do not think about the person in front of you as you will tend to follow their lines, braking points and corner speeds. This will make it very difficult for you to overtake them or beat them.
Aggression is a part of this sport but on the track never be so aggressive that you are a hazard to yourself and others.
If you ever crash while on the track always try and find the cause and think about how you can prevent it next time. Try to gain something from the experience.
Remember that the smooth way is the safest and fastest way.
Track officials, flag marshals and ambulance staff are usually volunteers. They donate their time and are there to help. Treat them with respect even if you don't always agree with them.
All brands of tyres steer and react differently e.g. the Dunlops have a very shallow profile and are slower steering than a Bridgestone that has a very sharp profile. For best performance the bike will need to be set up differently for each type of tyre.
All tyres should increase in
pressure from cold to hot. A good way
to check if your tyres are working properly is to check the pressures when cold
and hot. A rise of between 4 and 6
pounds is about right. If tyre pressure
only increases one or two pounds your starting pressure is too high. If it goes up 8 or more then your starting
pressure is too low. Use these
pressures as a guide only. They may
vary depending on what type of bike and tyres you have.
Warming the tyres up is very important and it takes at least one lap of any track to get them to operating temperature.
When you go to a meeting with the same set of tyres you used at a previous meeting it is a good idea to give them at least two laps warm up to scrub off any dirt and oil they may have picked up from your shed floor.
New tyres also need scrubbing in to remove the slippery protective coating that is applied to them at manufacture.
Modern competition motorcycles and tyres are designed to be used with the “hanging off” cornering style and when used properly can give you a significant speed advantage in corners. This technique helps to turn the bike at high speeds by lowering the centre of gravity and moving it to one side of the bike. This results in the bike not having to be leaned over as far to hold the same line in a corner. Because the bike can be more upright there is more tyre contact with the track giving increased traction. This allows you to accelerate out of a corner earlier and attain a higher speed on the straight.
If you try this technique and if doesn't feel natural or comfortable don't feel you that you have to hang off. You can practice this technique but don't bring it into your riding style until it feels natural. If your style isn't to hang off, a good way to turn the bike faster is to stick your knee out after your initial braking into a corner. The wind catches your leg and helps pull the bike down into the corner.
When initially braking, however hard, for a corner make sure that the bike is upright and your weight is stable.
If your tyres and brakes are warm, your bike is straight and your weight is stable it is almost impossible to lock the front wheel. Conversely it is very easy to lock up the rear wheel while the front brakes are applied because weight is transferred to the front of the bike and the rear becomes light and requires less brake pedal pressure to lock the rear wheel.
Never brake so late or so hard that you can't get the bike to turn into the corner. Be smooth and ease off the brakes gradually as you enter the turn. While braking, entering or exiting a corner always try to be as smooth as possible. Don't make abrupt or aggressive directional or weight changes that may upset the bike.
If you hang off the side of the bike around turns, adjust your riding position either before you brake or after you have applied the brakes and your bike is stable. Don't shift your weight during braking or you will unsettle the bike.
Don't let the brakes off suddenly when entering a corner; ease the brakes off gradually. When you are leaned over into a corner you can lock the front wheel if you have too much brake applied. Also your bike won't handle properly under hard braking, as the suspension will be compressed. Applying the brakes while leaned over in a corner will make your bike try to stand up. Releasing the brakes while leaned over will cause the bike to fall into the turn and also steer better. Running into a corner under brakes and easing them off gradually allows you to wash off speed through the corner and the later braking lets you get through the corner faster.
While doing all this you still must be able to get the bike down to the correct gear for driving out of the corner. Being in the correct gear will also assist in braking (mainly on four strokes). Being in too low a gear while braking can cause the bike to lock the back wheel.
Try to choose braking reference points for each corner. A reference point can be something on or near the track that is easy to see but won't cause you to lose your line of sight through the corner. Select suitable reference points as guides for when to apply the brakes and when to ease off the brakes. Choose something permanent as a reference point, not something that may move.
Practice braking and get a feel for how your bike behaves under brakes before trying drastic braking manoeuvres.
The fastest way through a corner is to straighten it out as much as possible. Timing and being smooth are the keys to fast cornering.
When cornering work out where you want to be when you exit the corner, then work backwards to find out how to get there. The further ahead you can plan the easier it is to get there and the more margin for error you create for yourself.
During practice evaluate every corner individually. Work out where there are positive and negative cambers, bumps or slippery patches.
Once you have knowledge of each turn, consider combinations of turns such as esses, or one corner leading into the next and work out the best line for you and your bike.
While braking, entering or exiting a corner always try to be as smooth as possible. Do your initial braking, stabilise your bike and then change down to the correct gear for the corner.
When the throttle is closed the engine can supply some braking force through the rear tyre. Four stroke engines offer more engine braking than two strokes. However in this situation there can be enough engine braking force to cause the rear wheel to hop or skid on gear downchanges.
If you find the back wheel hops (usually only four-strokes) as you change down gears approaching a corner, try slipping the clutch while changing down. Revving the engine a little as you change down helps to give a smoother gearchange. Changing up a gear without using the clutch can often result in a faster, smoother gearchange.
To know whether you are in the correct gear for a corner first work out what your usable power range is on the tacho. When you are in the correct gear for the corner the engine will be operating approximately in the middle of the power band (depending on your riding style and cornering
speed). If you find that the bike is too high or too low in the rev range you may have to alter the final drive ratio (change sprockets).
Maintaining the highest comfortable cornering speed is the key.
Don't make abrupt or aggressive directional or weight changes in a corner. Doing so unsettles the suspension and therefore the geometry of the bike and makes it difficult to maintain a constant line.
Try to select reference points for braking into, apexing and exiting out of a corner. Pick reference points that are easy to locate but will not distract you or make you change your line of sight.
While cornering you must look where you want to go - around or into the corner. Look where you want to go, NOT where you don't want to go. Don't look where you are now - look ahead. This may sound obvious but if you let your concentration wander from your chosen line, the bike will start to go in the direction you are looking. If you are worried about running out of track and look to see how much room you have left, you will almost certainly run wide.
When turning into a corner don't just let the brakes off - ease them off. You need less brake once you are in the corner and your bike won't handle properly under hard braking. Running into a corner under brakes and easing off gradually allows you to wash off speed later in the corner and therefore get through faster. Remember that braking or accelerating when leaned into a corner will make your bike stand up.
Keeping the throttle slightly open while entering a corner, instead of shutting it fully, can help to settle and stabilise the bike. Accelerating through the corner will give you more bike control put less pressure on the front end.
When exiting a corner, the earlier you can open the throttle, the faster you will exit the corner and you will reach a higher speed along the straight.
Motorcycles countersteer - turning the bars a small amount in one direction will make the bike turn in the opposite direction.
Remember that the fastest and safest way is the smooth way.
Riding in race traffic and overtaking are important skills to practice. Passing will become easier with time so don't make desperate moves that may endanger other competitors. Look ahead, plan your move then do it. If you hesitate while overtaking you may lose your opportunity and could also create a dangerous situation.
If you have been following another bike for a few laps and you know you are faster than they are but you just can't find a way past, you may be concentrating on the what other bike is doing so much that you end up going at the same pace and never get by.
If another bike overtakes you, especially if you are being lapped by faster bikes, let them by but don't suddenly change your line or pull over to one side of the track - there may be other riders behind the first one. Don't concentrate on riders behind you. Faster riders who are overtaking you will expect you to be predictable - don't make sudden changes of direction if you hear them approaching.
- Identity good and bad points in your riding
- Analyse each corner
- Have a strategy for each corner
- Use reference points
- Know where to look
- Avoid target fixation
- Practice co-ordination of braking, steering and throttle
- Analyse your riding technique
- Know why you are going faster/slower
You may be pumped up on adrenalin
for some time after the racing has finished.
Take some time to calm down before driving home. Often there are trophy presentation
ceremonies and other after-race functions where you can relax and chat about
the day's events with other competitors.
When you are back on the highway remember that you are no longer on the
racetrack. After a long day's racing
you may be tired physically and mentally.
It is a good idea to arrange a friend to drive for you.
Road race
meetings in Victoria are organised at several different levels with different
entry requirements and racing formats for each.
Some points to note are:
- You must be a member of a club that is affiliated with Motorcycling Australia.
- You must hold a racing licence appropriate to the event you are entering.
- You must have current Ambulance Insurance in order to obtain a licence.
- You MUST sign an indemnity form (usually included as part of the entry form) before you go out onto any racing circuit, either for racing or practice.
There are different types of racing licences that you can apply for. The rules governing the issue of these licences are currently being reviewed. Before applying for a racing licence you should check with the club secretary or with Motorcycling Victoria office staff to ensure you obtain the type of licence that will best suit your needs.
Most Preston club road race meetings are low key affairs that you can enter and pay for on the race day. Occasionally we need phone entries in advance so we know how many people to cater for. Expect 20 to 40 riders at these meetings. The atmosphere is relaxed and novelty races and a barbecue lunch are features.
There is an Interclub series each year in which you compete against riders from other clubs as well as Preston. These meetings are fairly relaxed but follow a set agenda of races and trophies are awarded at the end of the day. The level of racing at Interclubs tends to be slightly more competitive than at club days.
A feature of Interclubs is the Team Shield race in which selected top riders from each club compete against other clubs to gain points, which are totalled over the year. The winning club holds the trophy for one year. Preston riders competing in Interclub events can gain points that count towards Preston club Championship trophies awarded annually.
Find out which races you should ride
in to gain Preston club points. Entry
to Interclubs is by phone and payment is made on the day. Expect about 100 riders. Entry is by phoning Bunty Laing on (03) 9598
4671.
Riders holding a National Competition Licence can contest these meetings. Open meetings are generally very formally run. The level of competition can be fierce. Well-known open meetings in Victoria are the Super Series and the annual Stars of Tomorrow meeting.
You can enter an open roadrace meeting such as a round of the Super Series by obtaining an entry form from the race promoter or the club secretary and paying in advance. Entry into these events can close a couple of weeks prior to the race meeting. There are usually more than 100 riders at an open meeting.
When you first start racing it can sometimes seem difficult to know what you must do when entering a race meeting - preparing your bike, arranging transport, accommodation, garages, etc. and what to do at the track -signing forms, how to get your bike scutineered, what the procedure is when gridding your bike up for a race, etc. Don't hesitate to contact the club secretary who can put you in contact with someone who has a similar bike or can help you out with any other matter. Whatever your question someone in the club will know the answer.